Mark Williams floating in reds and colours on his way to yet another ranking title. 70,000 Welsh voices singing I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For in unison (and in the correct key). The poetry of Dylan Thomas. These are the things that spring to mind when I think of Wales. I don’t immediately think of wine when this great nation is brought into conversation. Well, I didn’t up until a few short years ago.
Wales is a land that feels exotically and mysteriously distant. Part of the UK of course and physically part of the same ground it still feels apart in some ways. It has its own language, culture, and traditions. It just needs its own currency and time zone and we could officially recognise it as ‘foreign’. Here in the UK wine comes almost exclusively from foreign lands and in some part there lies an appeal to many drinkers. To drink a glass of wine is to step out of the ordinary and be transported to a distant land of wondrous flavours and textures. We now have world class wine on our doorstep in England, but in Wales we have world class wine that can still feel exotic.
The first vineyards in the country were planted in the 1870s at Castell Coch, by Lord Bute. Gamay and Miel Blanc (apparently) It’s only in the last decade that the scene has begun to thrive again. A decade indeed, as it was in 2013 that the Welsh Vineyards Association (a regional part of Wine GB) was formed. And thriving is what the Welsh wine scene is doing. At last year’s Welsh Wine Awards there were 50 wines from 12 producers.
Those may not be big numbers. But Wales isn’t a big country. Nor does it have a lengthy history of grape growing and wine production. A decade ago you would have been laughed at for suggesting such a thing were possible. 50 Welsh wines, from 12 producers, being tasted and rated at a vineyard…in Wales. Wales now has around 70 hectares* of vines, with new planting proceeding apace. The story here is writing itself.
The Welsh Wine Award judges Trustram-Eve of Wine GB, Katie Jones of the respected and established Domaine Jones, Sara ‘Cwîn y Gwîn’ of Vin Van Cymru, and Deiniol from Blas ar Fywd, had their work cut out. It was clear, even from the first flight of the day, that diversity was going to be a strong theme. Each wine seemed to be different from the previous, and the next, and displayed its own character. Wine should provoke thought and conversation in my opinion (and be good obviously). These wines and flights did just that. One judge commented following the flight of sparkling rosé that ‘Here we have 7 different wines, and not one has followed the same recipe.’
There was much talk of flavour with terms like ‘aromatic’, ‘fresh’ and ‘delicate’ used often. A whole range of flavour descriptors appeared that served to reveal the sheer breadth and depth of wines being produced. Think of a fruit, floral, or spice descriptor, and it was probably uttered. Yet, wine is about so much more than flavour. Flavour is the icing on the cake; the key to good wine is in its structure and balance. There was plenty of conversation around this too. It was apparent that while these were wines of style and flavour, they were also wines of substance and high production values.
It was almost the end of the judging before a wine appeared with an acidity that was potentially too high. Just imagine that. A decade ago acidity being high was seen as a negative across the border in England. At these awards it was barely in question. Many of the wines were described as having ‘ripe’ fruit. Whilst there are undoubtedly challenges growing grapes somewhere as cool (this works both in terms of temperature and hipness) as Wales, these growers most definitely have a handle on it.
Interestingly, there isn’t a single producer in Wales with their own production facility. Robb and Nicola at White Castle are well on their way (as this is being written) to building their own winery, but there’s still a little way to go. Currently 75% of Welsh production is made under contract at Three Choirs. The remaining 25% is at Halfpenny Green. But, there is sense here. Growing grapes is one skillset, making wine is quite another. Also, constructing a winery is a lengthy and expensive process. This, as has been pointed out, is a young industry finding its feet. There aren’t mountains of cash hiding behind or within these Beacons. Welsh wine has grown rapidly, but not without thought.
One of the questions asked over lunch was ‘What defines a Welsh wine?’ In wine we tend to find some description of a country’s wines that mark them as being unique to said country. With Wales being so young viticulturally, and growers working with a wide array of grape varieties, both established and more unusual, it seems that pinning down ‘Welshness’ in a wine is far from easy.
There is still some way to go before we find the character, flavour, or specific structural aspect that may mark a wine out as being Welsh. However, during the judges’ discussions, the same words kept cropping up: ‘balance’, ‘delicate’, ‘aromatic’, ‘fresh’. These words could easily apply to wines from anywhere of course, however that other ‘anywhere’ would likely have a longer, richer history of grape growing and wine production. That Wales doesn’t have a specific identity yet isn’t a problem (the producers themselves have plenty of that), but that Wales is making wines that can be described with such aspirational language already is a testament to the hard work, care, and effort they put into their grapes and wines. No one needs identikit wines, and to be at the beginning of an industry still learning and discovering its identity is a privilege.
With all this in mind I headed down to that there London for the Welsh Wine Showcase. From the mountains and the mines, here were a group of producers sharing their new history; a brave new world of flavour, texture, and wonder. Eight producers from around Wales were sharing their wines and stories; below are a few thoughts on the producers and wines. As usual, notes were made live and kept brief due to the nature of the event.
ANCRE HILL ESTATES
One of the first Welsh producers I tasted, in fact probably the first overall. Today this 10 hectare estate works on minimal interventionist principles and growing biodynamically (Demeter certified). The range encompasses characterful labels with wines that are layered between fresh fruit and delicate secondary and tertiary layers of spice, leaf, and autolysis. The Blanc de Noirs NV was the standout here with subtle red berry fruits, peachiness, and integrated caramel, toast and honey. As long as the day. The Pinot Noir had layers of white pepper spice, softly toasted oak and a savoury core surrounded by dark fruits and brambles.
GWINLLAN HEBRON VINEYARD
“What you’re tasting here is my vineyard in your glass” said owner Paul Rolt. These are some of the most naturally made wines I have ever tasted. No additives or sprays of any description will be found here. Fermentation is with entirely naturally occurring yeasts with no blocking (or promoting) of malo. If it happens, it happens. They could be thought of more as custodians than anything else. Two wines were served, a Rondo and a Field Blend (67% Rondo, 33% Solaris). Interestingly we tasted both wines chilled and at ambient temperature. There were marked and clear differences. They are both characterful and interesting. The Field Blend was my preferred of the two with a range of soft red berries, darker fruits, aromatic, and soft savoury grip. If you can taste with Paul I would recommend it.
MONTGOMERY VINEYARD
A firm favourite and one of the most vocal Welsh producers, I have seen Montgomery go from strength to strength in the time I have known them. The gregarious Woody is a great ambassador for the world of Welsh wine. Over time this range has increased across both sparkling and still. The 2021 Sparkling Seyval Blanc is pure, fresh, and filled with well defined fruit. The Sparkling Demi-Sec also worked well with both a subtle sweetness and luscious texture that carried the ripe stone and citrus fruits to a lingering finish. A consistent and excellent producer.
THE DELL VINEYARD
The Alford family have farmed at The Dell for 5 generations, and in 2022 they planted the first vines on their land. Yet they have wine already. As they have been leasing an established vineyard nearby in order to get into the swing of things. And swing they have. The Col Fondo had a lightness of zest and pear, yet a crunch of acidity and just a touch of texture. The 2 still were both ripe and fresh, with summery fruits and overlaid with floral aromatics.
VALE VINEYARD
These wines were very impressive. Only 10 miles from the coast but with a helpful rain shadow, the Davies family are working with Solaris, Seyval, PN Précoce, Caberet Noir, Divico, and Rondo. All 3 wines were wonderful, but the Solaris stood out in particular. It had a core of citrus and orchard fruit but was perfectly ripe so as to suggest white peach and almost apricot. There was texture here too, and underpinned with a fine seam of acidity that made this wine a journey of feel and flavour. Nice aromatics rounded this out well. Lovely.
VELFREY VINEYARD
Another very impressive run of wines. These had poise, finesse, elegance, and confidence too. Richly textured, almost chalky, the two sparkling wines had superb levels of complexity and depth, and encouraged you to keep coming back. The Naturiol Seyval Blanc delivered incredible focus of fruit for a wine of only 9%ABV. This low intervention producer has won all the awards going and understandably so. Excellent wines.
WHINYARD ROCKS
We often hear complaints in wine that products are inaccessible and too complicated, and the labelling is dull etc. Not here. These are super small scale, super cool, low-intervention wines that provoke thought and conversation. I’m not the biggest fan of the term ‘smashable’ although choose to see it as a positive descriptor of wines. We want wines people will enjoy drinking, and they certainly delivered. From a fruit burst Col Rondo (genius) to an explosive, fruit filled, and aromatic Solaris/Ortega Pet Nat, these wines are great fun. Loved what these good people are doing.
WHITE CASTLE
My association with White Castle Vineyards goes back some time now, and Nicola and Robb Merchant have become good friends. They are one of the most well known producers and strive hard to build a bigger name for Welsh wines. Their range showed beautifully today, It’s hard to pick standouts when the wines are this good but the sparkling rosé Esmae was filled with soft summer berry fruits and flowers. Delightful. The Gwin Gwyn was an aromatic peach explosion that just kept giving, a superb white you should have in your fridge all summer long. I ADORED the Cabernet Franc though. Yep, Welsh Cabernet Franc. Lifted, delicate, precise, poised, RIPE…who would have thought it.
ST. HILARY VINEYARD
There was nothing to taste here, as the vines were only planted in 2021. They’re first harvest was last October and there are a few bottles of their first wine currently in production. Chatting to founders Liz and Peter it was clear that there is a plan here to craft exciting wines, and find ways of getting people into the vineyards to experience Welsh wine first hand. It’s wonderful to attend a tasting and talk to people who are still getting the vineyard going and whet the appetite. I cannot wait to taste their wines and follow their journey further.
CONCLUSION
I’m no closer to what ‘Welshness’ means from a wine perspective, at least in terms of flavour. The audacity and vision of these producers is to be admired. On paper not a lot of this ‘should’ work (not right now anyway) btu here are a group of producers who have faith, heart, and belief. And it’s paying off and they’re roving that the theory isn’t always right. These are wines of creativity, expression, and exploration. There was nothing identikit to be found here. Nothing tasted like anything else. It’s great to see the growth and use of varieties like Seyval Blanc and Solaris, they clearly have a place in Wales and are creating characterful, expressive, and delicious wines.
We need hope and joy more than ever today, and that’s what I found at this event. The energy and positivity was heartening, and to be there at the beginning of what is going to be an exciting journey of growth is a real pleasure.
To everyone involved today and in the world of Welsh wine, I raise my glass and salute you.
REMEMBER: IT’S JUST GRAPES
ALSO REMEMBER: KEEP ON KEEPING ON
*WineGB Industry Report 2022/23
Freestyle Wines 