It’s once again here: Malbec World Day. The day we celebrate more than just a grape variety growing in a place. From its humble beginnings in France to global domination from an Argentine base, Malbec has entered the common vernacular. It’s a go to grape variety for many consumers, the fastest growing grape variety in the UK, and a source of great joy.
As I was thinking ahead to this year’s event I was hoping to grab a producer or two for a few minutes and get their thoughts and insights. With thanks to the North South team, the generosity of Caroline Park, and the willingness of an Argentine winemaker, I found myself ‘interviewing’ the wonderful Martin Kaiser, head winemaker of Doña Paula.
Doña Paula were established in 1997 by Chilean Ricardo Claro. That’s right, a Chilean. They make great wines there, yet this owner of Santa Rita (really GREAT wines) was entranced by the potential of Argentina while on holiday with his wife. Before long he had set up this new estate, purchasing existing vineyards and planning new ones. Specifically he found appeal in the Lujan de Cuyo, the Land of Sand. This is Malbec’s Argentine base camp. It’s from here that it found its feet and slowly moved to take over the world.
Malbec has been incredibly successful in building its reputation, and that of Argentina alongside. Yet, we are only now learning its true personality. For years we have been expecting Malbec to be big, brash, bold, alcoholic, filled with intense black fruit and spices. That surely is one form the variety can take, but it is capable of so very much more. We are learning as drinkers what winemakers and growers have known for a while: Malbec is an excellent vehicle for terroir expression.
I’m sorry.
But it’s true. Malbec is capable of offering soft red fruits, aromatics, florals, and delicacy. It can do the other stuff too. That should only make it more interesting damnit! We all love Pinot Noir for the same reasons right? I’ve just equated Malbec with Pinot Noir…I shall never be accused of hyperbole. Joking aside, this is a variety that is complex and communicative, interesting and enticing…and capable of delivering a huge amount of joy.
In my conversation with Martin we talked about these facets of Malbec, and how it is so well suited to Argentina. Before I talk about the 2 wines I was kindly sent by Doña Paula, you can find this interview below.
My sincere thanks to Martin for his time; he recorded this in the midst of harvest, the busiest time for a winemaker. I know he would have talked for longer (as would I) but I did not want to take up too much of his very valuable time.
Hoping that this interview has compelled you to drink some Malbec, specifically some of Martin’s work, you can find a couple of reviews…right now.
FINCA EL ALTO MALBEC 2022
El Alto Vineyard – Lujan de Cuyo 100% Malbec
El Alto Malbec. Finca El Alto is located in Lujan de Cuyo, the real home of Malbec. This 430 hectare plot is home to vines planted in 1969 which, alongside warm days and cooler evenings, allows for expressive, interesting, and new wave Malbec to be produced. Fermentation and maceration in concrete vessels for 21 days. 12 months in French oak, 20% new.
The nose is brimming with perfectly poised and expressive red fruits. You can’t smell ‘crunchy’, but if you could…redcurrant, cranberry, fresh raspberries, cherries, and a healthy does of red plum. There are layers of fruit here, gently caressing the nose with their freshness and purity. Then comes the gentle mountain herbs and very soft spices (more aromatic than hot) and just a whisper of oak. This is finely constructed and stays cool and focused.
The palate is richly mouthfiling but far from overbearing. There are wicker baskets filled with freshly picked fruits. More cherries, plums, redcurrants and raspberries. Then there’s a lick of dew-soaked blackberries. They’re fresh and juicy, with a burst of dark fruit. All the while there is a fine acid line; you don’t really notice it, but it’s there keeping this wine fresh and mouthwatering. You do notice the tannins. They’re round, soft, supple. Almost sweet tannins but fading gently into a chalkiness from which all the bright fruit can express itself. Weaving throughout all of this is thyme, rosemary, jasmine, fresh mountain air. Supple spice and carefully integrated oak play delicately on the long, juicy, and satisfying finish. This is new wave Malbec with freshness, complexity, and it’s utterly moreish.
You can find this in Waitrose, where it is often included in their 25% off 6 bottles or more promotions. It’s great value at full price, let alone when discounted.
Watch my review on Youtube here.
MALBADO MALBEC 2022
Lujan de Cuyo 100% Malbec
This is fascinating. A Pinot Noir vineyard planted in 1975. By the early 2000s it wasn’t performing and was due to be changed. The tops of the vines were all cut off and before anything else happened, the rootstock started growing. Turns out these rootstocks were Malbec. These vines were encouraged, recovered, and cultivated. A veritable Phoenix from the flames. Warm fermentation ahead of 15 days post-ferment maceration. 12 months in 2nd & 3rd fill French oak.
Intense and powerful nose; this pulls you right in. It’s a deep swirling pool of plums, cherries, blackberries, and bramble fruits. There are flashes of colour happening everywhere, all around you. Red fruit, black fruit, you’re awash in a world of structured and deep fruit. What a place to be. Withing this maelstrom there is a calming aroma of violets and jasmine, exotic almost. The aromatic is layered in, it peeps out and keeps you grounded. There are herbs being warmed over flames, a subtle meatiness, and some dried fruits in there too. Notes of dark chocolate, coffee, and toasted vanilla. This is complex, brooding, and you aren’t getting away. Why would you want to?
This is powerful yet still has refrain. That fruit comes abounding in yet doesn’t knock everything (or anything in fact) over. Waves of red and black plum and cherry, fresh blackcurrant, blackberry, bramble. It’s juicy and ripe, oozing flavour. Those rich fruits seep into every part of the mouth and gently release those exotic, scented aromas of red flowers, mountain herbs, jasmine, violet, and roses. Then a layer of melted dark chocolate. The oak is supple and subtle and brings just a note of vanilla alongside a hint of cracked pepper. Those tannins are big but so soft, they melt away with the dark chocolate and you realise there was a fine seam of vibrant acidity underneath this all along. This bobs and weaves with fruit, spice, aromatics, and oak all the way to the end. Intoxicating perhaps, but perfectly balanced and expressive.
You’ll find this one in ASDA.
Watch my review on Youtube here.
So, which Malbec are you drinking this Malbec World Day?
Once again my enormous thanks to Caroline Park, Manny Doidge, and Martin Keiser for their help and time.
REMEMBER: IT’S JUST GRAPES
ALSO REMEMBER: KEEP ON KEEPING ON
Freestyle Wines 