I’m starting the year with a reasonably personal piece. Although, given most of what I’ve written is about my own experiences of wine, I suppose you could argue they’re all personal. 2024 hasn’t gotten off to the greatest of beginnings, or rather, it’s overshadowed by the closing events of 2023. In fact, 2023 was a bit of a shit show all round, as I believe the modern vernacular would have me say.
2023 was the year I finally faced up to the fact my mental health is worse than I realised. Statistics suggest that 1 in 3 of us deal with mental health challenges at some point in life. I rather suspect that’s closer to 3 in 3. I’ve struggled with MH since my youth (I’ll spare you the psychobabble and exploration of childhood trauma, which again, we all carry with us), but have usually been able to work hard and fight to keep it in check. ’23 was the year that broke it all. What a bastard. No need of it. Anyway, I’m facing up to the fact that I need more help now, and no longer possess the ability to combat things alone. What was it Chekhov said? “Klingons on th…” Wrong Chekov. Writer Anton Chekhov said “Anyone can face a crisis, it’s the day to day that gets you.” Or words to that affect, I am so lazy I haven’t even looked it up.
Whatever my challenges may be, they’re not really for discussion here. And I am in no means writing this piece in the hope of support, empathy, or pity. It’s just relevant to the wine I have in front of me. No, really. I took to social media at the back end of the aforementioned Year of Hell (If I was really smart I could get a second Star Trek reference in here…but I won’t do that) and shared some personal thoughts and feelings. I was overwhelmed at the support and kindness shown to me. It goes beyond my meagre literary ability to convey or articulate the depth of gratitude I feel to everyone who contacted me, via whatever medium, to show their love. As someone who finds it hard to take a compliment and niceness, this was all a bit much. Yet the difference it has made is incalculable. But, if generosity had a value, I would surely be a millionaire.
Amongst the firework display of good will and support, a few good Samaritans went above and beyond in sending me some bottles of wine. This post is about the first of these bottles I have opened, and as we proceed, if you’ve made it this far, you’ll see why my MH challenges particularly relate, if in the name of the wine only.
The supremely generous Erik and Laura Burgess sent me a couple of bottles sourced from Alexander Wines (as always, UP THE INDIES), this included a bottle of Ataraxia Serenity.
I have been privileged in my career to travel to some wonderful destinations, but Ataraxia is not one of them. Partly because it’s not actually a place, rather an idea from ancient Greek philosophy. Ataraxia is a state of being, where the mind is balanced and free from distress and anxiety. As I said, I’ve never actually been there. Well, maybe once, for about 3 minutes. Ataraxia was considered the ideal mental state for soldiers about to enter in to battle. I’m sure someone more clever could draw an allegory from this about dealing with the day to day. Perhaps Mr Chekhov. Or Chekov. Fine either way…
Serenity is similarly a state of physical, mental, and emotional peace achieved when the mind and body are attuned and everything is quiet. The usual noise of day to day life reduced to a mere murmur. It also involves the well known idea of accepting what one can or cannot change and knowing the difference. Those Stoic folks have some rather strange ideas don’t they?
There was clearly a lot of thought on behalf of Erik & Laura as they chose this bottle in their outrageously generous gift to me.
Ataraxia (in terms of the wines) can be found in the Hemel-en-Aarde, west of Cape Agulhas in South Africa’s Walker Bay. Hemel-en-Aarde means ‘Heaven on Earth…there’s clearly a theme here. The estate dates back to 2004, when Kevin & Hanli Grant bought the 47 hectare Skyfields Farm and started working vines. Remarkably there are 14 soil types to be found here, so the Grant’s do a lot of work with varieties, clones, and rootstocks.
The Ataraxia Serenity is a blend. I’ve long thought that one of the things South Africa does so well is the blend. One of its most recognisable wines is The Chocolate Block, and there are countless other wines that could be mentioned. On the website, Kevin Grant suggests that a blend should speak of ‘From where’ rather than ‘From what.’ I like to think of the wine speaking of ‘a style’, where you can work out what each component has brought to the blend. Like a great band there should be one sound, but with each member contributing something particular rather than just being there for the sake of it. Or should I return to the Star Trek analogies? Each member of Picard’s crew bring something to the team rather than just being there? No, that’s enough Star Trip for now.
Erik recommended that I decant this for a good 8 hours to let it unfurl and reach its real potential. I did sneak a little taste as soon as it was opened and it was tight. Taut, and with a tension that I knew would reduce over a few hours to unveil the wealth of fruit and complexity waiting inside. What I’m saying is that was nice to start with, but very structured. I didn’t quite get to 8 hours when I ventured back, perhaps closer to six, but what’s a couple of hours between friends?
This wine sings of ripe berry fruit, redcurrants, strawberries, and wild brambles. There’s a top note of orange peels and the aromatic enticement of jasmine, violet, and mountain heather. Underneath this emerges a darker fruit, more bramble and some blackcurrant. All fresh and ripe though, as if being picked early and still coated in a touch of morning dew. Then some spice, a note of cumin, thyme, bay leaf, and a hint of pepper. All layered with delicate smoke, clove, and toast. From this already verbose note, you can clearly identify that this wine is a blend of Pinot Noir (SA’s 7th most planted red variety), Cinsault (6th), and Pinotage (3rd).
The wine spends 11 months in French barriques, 20% new, and the remainder of which are 2nd fill.
The palate retains that wonderful tension, it’s a fine seam of acidity that powers the wine along. Tannins melt in the mouth, and as they do so they reveal layer upon layer of those red fruit, brambles, smoke, and spice. There is a touch of chocolate here, and smoked herbs. But that acidity…that’s the heart of this wine. As the flavours bleed gently and seductively into the palate, the acidity awakens you, and reminds you of the beauty you are experiencing. Almost as if it wants to be sure you’re taking it in and not drifting too far. This is pure, and fresh, and expertly crafted. It’s a wine of peace and comfort, but one that reminds you so. I am writing this at the 6 hour mark and probably won’t add to this. Yet I can see this wine travelling further into that soft aromatic beauty and warm fruited serenity. It’s very well named.
What a wonderful gift to receive, especially with as much thought. I’ve returned to attempting to play guitar pieces alongside wine of late, and I couldn’t help but choose one of the most serene 6 string pieces of all, Peter Green’s ‘Albatross’. Peter Green, who is without doubt one the greatest guitarists of all time (and sadly underrated amongst the wider public), famously struggled with mental health. He lived in less enlightened times and has his mind further damaged by enforced Electro-Convulsive Therapy. Yet, he could still play. I was very fortunate to see him do so twice, and once even met him and shook his hand to say thank you for his lifetime of brilliant work.
So, how to close this off. I must offer once again my most sincere thanks and heartfelt gratitude to everyone who has shown me the support and love mentioned earlier. Of course, here I must say a special thank you to Erik and Laura who were so generous in gifting me this wine. They also sent another, and I’ll write a piece on that. That’s more of a threat than a promise right?
Seneca said that we should believe in ourselves and trust we’re on the right path. I am off to ponder that, and strive to do better…all while approaching eurythmia through the medium of this wonderful wine.
Remember: It’s Only Grapes.
Also Remember: We Keep On Keeping On
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